3/16/2010 Stan's Cabinet Shop
Urbas Home Services

Serving north Kitsap and east Jefferson Counties, Washington
Including the cities of Bainbridge Island, Poulsbo, and Bremerton

Custom Cabinets and Home Remodel
Individual Detail for Every Job

Document made with Nvu
Stan Urbas 
Urbas Home Services
E-mail: cabinets@urbashome.com
Seabeck, WA 98380

office phone: 360-830-4162 (local to Kitsap County, Poulsbo, Bremerton)
cell phone:    206-992-8803 (local to
Bainbridge Island)
WEB Site:      stanscabinetshop.com or  urbashome.com


About Us

Some Examples Of Our Work

How We Build Cabinets

Storage Problems?
    ==> Storage Solutions!

Cabinet Styles

Cabinet Options

What's Out There: Is This Your Kitchen?

If You're Interested:

Cabinet Styles

When talking about cabinet styles we start out easy enough; we have three basic categories to deal with: base units, wall units, and full height. No rocket science here -- the base units are ones that sit down on the floor and wall units are hung above the floor, onto the wall (or from the ceiling). When you start with a wall unit above a base unit and fill in the space between with cabinets, you end up with a full-height.

Upper Units

Lower Units
Full Height

Up-Front: What's On The Outside

Face Frame: The front "skin" of the cabinets - the surface you normally see when looking straight-on - is called  the "face frame". Shown to the left is an example of some of our cabinets being assembled and installed. The upper cabinets have the face frames installed. At the lower left is a frame ready to be attached.

The face frames are built and assembled at our shop, then installed onto the cabinet shells at the client's home. This means a single unit will span several cabinet shells, adding to the beauty and integrity of the finished product.

All of the cabinets built and installed by Stan's Cabinet Shop have face frames. If you are absolutely set on the style of cabinet called "frameless", you need not go any further - that is a type of cabinet we do not build.
Doors and Drawers: Note that in this view, the doors and drawer fronts have been installed on those same cabinets.

Reveal: the amount of face frame you see in around the door and drawer front is called "reveal". In the picture at the left I have superimposed some arrows to show the vertical reveal between doors and three types of horizontal reveals: Between drawers, above doors or top drawers, and below doors or bottom drawers. The amounts of each type of reveal is a customer option. "No reveal" is also an option, though to allow movements of the drawers and doors, this, in reality, results in a space of about 1/8".

One further note: the customer has an option of having finger grips cut into the edge of the doors and drawers, thus allowing door and drawer fronts without handles or knobs. In such cases, in order to allow enough room for your fingers, we would need at least a 1" horizontal reveal between doors and drawers.
Door/Drawer Face: Pictured below are the three types of door and drawer fronts we build.

Classic (Fixed) Panel with Edge Trim edge view

Classic Panel- Top View

Raised Panel Cutaway Edge View

Raised Panel Cutaway Top View

Recessed Panel  Cutaway Edge View

Recessed Panel Cutaway Top View

Classic Panel:
(top row) Although widely used in the past, this style is not used much for doors any more, due to the requirement for a center (vertical) style with double-doors. However, we you use it extensively with drawer fronts.

Raised Panel:
(middle row) With this style the panels center is actually "raised" to the same plane as the rails and styles.

Recessed Panel: (bottom row) Also caled "flat panel".

Edge Treatment: Typically the outside of the rails and styles are finished with a 1/4" round radius on the front edge and a 1/8" radius on the back. Drawers may have a more elaborate design. In the top row the drawer edge is cut to match the raided panel in the door.

Door Variations

Arches: Using arches in cabinet doors results in an entirely different flavor to the ambiance of the room in which the cabinets are located. We have available a variety of arch styles to choose from, including images that span door pairs. Arches may be part of the bottom rails as well as the tops.
Glass Doors provide a great way to display your china, glassware, or art objects. Glass may be used in place of wood panels on any door. In addition to clear, we also have available a number of specialty patterned glasses.
Arches may be used in combination with glass panels.
Lighting Effects: Lights may be added to the cabinet top to illuminate the interior and to the bottom to light up the counter works space below. In order to achieve lighting throughout the interior of cabinet shown we used clear glass shelves in place of the traditional wood.

Note that if lighting is to be included in the cabinets it is the owner's responsibillity to provide a switched power circuit to the top and bottom of the cabinet.

Full Reveal: Note the amount of face frame visible between doors and drawers.

No Reveal: One variation has no vertical reveal.
No Reveal: In this example there is no reveal at the bottom of the doors as well as in between.
End Treatment: In this example recessed panels are incorporated into the cabinet end.
End Treatment: Here panels - which simulate doors - are hung onto the end of the cabinet. Note thyat they incorporate the same design as the doors. Glass may be substituted for wood in these end panels.


Full Height Units:
You will occasionally see these cabinets called "vertical storage units" in kitchen magazines. They normally are the same depth as the lower units (around 24") and run vertically even with the tops of the upper units. But like the others, we can make them to fit your specifications.

Fixed Shelves: This is one of the alternatives for the top part of the full height unit. These shelves may start anywhere from counter height and run on up to the top of the unit. However, we recommend they be at least eye level or shortly above for the primary kitchen user, and from there go to the top of the unit.

Pull-Out Shelf (not pictured): The pull out shelf is very similar to the trays described below, except the sides do not extend above the top of the shelf itself, so that there is easy access from all three sides. This shelf does include a vertical back to prevent items from sliding off the back.

Vertical Dividers: Our experience has been that this is one of the features most desired by our customers. As you can see, they are very handy for serving trays, cookie sheets, muffin pans, cutting boards, and the like. They usually run about 14 to 18" high, depending on the size of your trays, and 4 to 6" across.  Try to include provisions for three to six of these slots. They can be located anywhere in the unit, but we recommend the bottoms be a minimum of 12" from the bottom of the cabinet and the top be no more than 8" above eye level for the primary kitchen user.

Pull-Out Trays: By our definition a tray is essentially a drawer that resides behind cabinet doors. Usually the sides are short -- tall enough to prevent items from sliding off, yet short enough to provide easy access from the sides. When trays are towards the bottom of the cabinet and access from the top is easy, the sides may extend up within 1" of the tray or shelf above (like regular drawers).

Drawers (not pictured here): Regular drawers, the same as shown in the lower units pictured below, may be included in the bottom part of the full-height cabinet.
Full Height Swing-Out Pantry: Normally these cabinets consist of two parts. The upper part would have shelves, either fixed or pull-out. The lower part would house the swing-out pantry. The height of the pantry is about the same as a refrigerator, though may vary somewhat based on the height of the primary kitchen user. It should be set so that the primary user has easy viewing of the shelf contents.

The idea behind this type of cabinet is to both provide lots of storage capacity as well as provide easy access to everything stored within. Virtually everything is placed one item deep, meaning nothing blocks the view or access of anything else.

The shelves in the door and both sides of the center swing-out units are about 4" deep to accommodate canned goods, small box goods, spice jars, etc. The back fixed shelves are deeper, allowing for the storage of larger items. Shelf height normally ranges from 5" for the uppers to 16" for the lower, back units, although that can be adjusted to meet the needs of the customer. The fronts of the door and swing-out shelves have a short lip to prevent items from falling off.

If you have special requirements for a specific size, please let us know and we can adjust the dimensions accordingly.

Unfortunately, not every kitchen has the space to house one of these cabinets. In order to be effective they should be between 40 and 54" wide. In many instances pull-out trays or pull-out pantry (below) are preferable.  However, these should be at least considered if space permits.

Note from Stan: I first saw one of these modules more than 30 years ago at a home show in Seattle. Both Mary and I were immediately impressed with the functionality of these units, and I immediately went home and began drawing up plans for my first one - for the kitchen in our own home. Within a few months I had it built and installed. It was put into use shortly thereafter and is still in use today. At one point we remodeled our kitchen, but for the swing-out pantry this only meant refacing the outside (to match the rest of the kitchen) and moving it over 6" in order to accommodate a larger refrigerator. Over the years all our friends marveled at the usefulness of this cabinet, and several asked us to build one for them.
Full Height Pull-Out Pantry: So what do you do if you want the storage and accessibility of our swing-out pantry but don't have the room for one? The answer may very well be our pull-out pantry option. The unit pictured to the left is only 11" wide on the outside, yet as you can see, it stores quite an array of goods, all at your finger tips. These units can literally be made as wide as you want, but the optimum is to be wide enough to store two large cans back-to-back. Two or more of these can be place side-by-side for even more capacity.

Closet-Pantry Alternative:
Unlike other types of cabinets, the full-height cabinet may actually be used to replace an existing 
closet-pantry. In that case the existing door or doors would be removed, and the newly-constructed pantry unit slid inside the existing shell. This applies to all types of cabinets described above, including fixed shelves, pull-out shelves and trays, pull-out and swing-out, pantries, trays, and drawers. Because we custom build all our cabinets, they can easily be made to match your existing closet-pantry. One option would be to remove the small wall segment above the existing closet door and run the pantry to the ceiling.

Wine Rack: Two different styles of wine rack are displayed here: square and cross-cut patterns.
Open Shelves: When open shelves are included, the interior is finished to match the exterior. Two options are displayed. The unit on the left is in the style of a book case. On the right you see the shelf area framed i nwith rails and style to match the adjoining doors.

Upper Units

The upper units have the least number of alternate styles, but they do have some. The "norm" is for the bottom of this unit to be about 15-17" above the top of the countertop, though this height is totally up to the customer. If you typically have a large appliance like a mixer on the countertop we should make sure there is enough clearance to slide it under the upper units. The top can extend up to the soffit or ceiling, but a gap can be left above if that is the owner's preference. These units have one or two doors, depending on the width.  Depth is usually 12" to the front of the trim. Alternatives include:

Above stove: The bottom is higher to allow room for stove hood or microwave.  Width would match the opening required for either device. We recommend that the microwave bottom be a little below the upper cabinets, say 12-14" above the stove top. However, if you do canning on your stove or otherwise cook with large pots or kettles you should check their clearance requirements before specifying a height for this cabinet.

Above frig: Again, the bottom is raised to allow clearance for the refrigerator.  If you are considering getting a larger refrigerator at some later date, allowance should be made to accommodate that unit.  Be sure to check your instruction manual to guarantee the minimum clearance is provided.  The depth of this unit can be either 12" or 24" (nominally) - usually to match the adjoining units.  We can do either. For units 24" deep you might like to have slide-out shelves in order to easily get at everything stored inside.

Molding: Cove molding is usually included at the top of the upper unit, unless the customer prefers to not have it.  Several styles are available. This trim is custom cut out of the same wood used to make the cupboards

Staggered tops: Varying the height of the upper units can dramatically improve the overall appearance of the kitchen. This is an alternative we do not recommend for kitchens with low ceilings or soffits, but for vaulted or cathedral ceilings, with an open space well above the eight-foot level, staggering the tops is especially effective.

Counter Lights: There is sufficient clearance - usually 1-1/2 to 2" - behind the bottom trim (beneath the bottom shelf) to conceal under counter lighting. It is the owner's responsibility to provide electrical connectivity as well as the lights themselves.

Corner: The corner cabinet has a door which is at a 45-degree angle to the cabinets on either side, thus providing easy access to the space inside. It usually has either two or three shelves, depending on the height of the unit. The shelves may be fixed, as pictured to the right, or may contain lazy-susan turntables similar to the lower corner units described below.

Lower Units

Here again there is a "norm" for the counter height, which is 36". The governing factor in the height determination is the dishwasher. These units are normally around 34" high, meaning that with clearance and counter trim, the top of the counter ends up at 36". However, this can certainly be made higher for taller persons, or lower if the dishwasher is not a consideration.  One popular alternative is to have part of the counter space at around 30", to be used as a "baking center" at a height more comfortable to rolling out dough or kneading bread.

Doors vs. Drawers: Our "norm" is to put all drawers in the lower units, rather than all doors or drawers over doors. There is a good reason for this. Plain and simple, it's just much easier get things out of a drawer than out of the back of a door unit. All our drawers are of the ball-bearing double roller variety, like you find in the more expensive file cabinets.  They are also full extension.  This means that you not only can store heavy items, like dishes, cookware, or books, but you can very easily get at what's at the back or the drawer.  Without getting down on your hand and knees and crawling into the unit itself!

Of course, we realize that there may be times when doors are preferred, and we certainly are able to provide that option as well.
Corner Unit Lazy Susan: This corner unit pictured is one of the hallmarks of our cabinet system. Note that the wood turntable is not obstructed with a center post, meaning that you can store large items on it without space constraints.  The turntable rides on a circular ball-bearing support, meaning you can put in the heaviest of items, like dishes or bags of flour or sugar without fear of it tipping or becoming unbalanced.

And because we build to order, there is no fixed requirement for size. This means we can accommodate your corner, whether it is small, 32"x32" space, or 38"x38" -- or even larger. The bigger the space, the larger the door and the more one of these babies will hold.

You might be concerned that with a potential size of 38"x38"x36" high we might not be able to fit it through your doors. This is not a problem for us; because we build locally, large bulky items can be shipped in pieces and assembled on site.
Sink Units: There are two basic ways to handle a kitchen or bathroom sink. The traditional method is with two door under the sink  and a "dummy" drawer to cover up the sink itself. The second method is to raise the bottom of the under-sink area and put a real drawer underneath. This provides a handy storage place for dish cloths, towels, or large items.

However, one must keep in mind that in order for this to work the plumbing pipes must be high enough.  Also, the underside of the sink will be visible whenever the doors are opened.

Trays Behind Doors: This is a handy alternative when easy access is desired, yet the customer prefers the look of doors over drawers. Side-by-side units can have different spacing and numbers of trays, yet the appearance from the outside (doors) is exactly the same.

The glides used on these trays are the exact same double-hung ball-bearing units used on our full sized drawers.
Lower Unit Pantry: Although we maintain this as an option, we normally do not recommend it. This style does allow easy access for items on the door shelves and integral swingouts. However,  normal counter depth (24") would make accessing the fixed back shelves difficult. A better application might be in areas where the counter is shallow, like 18" or less.
Pull-Out Pantry: This is an extremely good use of spaces narrower than 18". In fact, it is probably the only good use of space less than 12" in width. With most off-the-shelf cabinets your only choice would be to put in a blank filler panel. The picture to the left is an example of how we can custom-build to the space available. This unit is about wide enough for a large jars. Wider units can handle several items across.